D.B.M. WOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

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Solid and Engineered Wood Flooring Nail Down and or Adhesive Installations

To ensure a natural and beautiful solid wood floor installation, a little more planning up front will help you achieve the desired look.  As one of Mother Nature’s most magnificent creations, the beauty of our product is determined by the sun, shade, the rain, the forest density and many other factors. Due to these factors, our wood is not always perfect but is manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which allow for a material defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.

• The installer/owner assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and quality before installing it. If any material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.
• Prior to installation of any solid wood flooring product, the installer/owner must determine that the job site environment and the sub surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries. These instructions recommend that the construction and sub-floor be dry, stiff and flat. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with sub surface or job site environment deficiencies.
• Prior to installation, the installer/owner has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and cut off or hold out pieces with defects, whatever the cause. Use of filler, putty stick, or stain for defect correction during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
  • When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to the actual square footage needed for cutting and grading.  This is in addition to the 5% defect allowance mentioned above.
  • Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer/owner should not use the piece.

SUGGESTED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

• Broom (Soft Bristle)
• Tape Measure
• Table Saw, Jig Saw, Miter Saw and or Circular Saw
• Thickness Specific Flooring Nailer
• Drill with assorted drill bits
• Hammer
• Quality Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
• Finishing Nails
• Chalk line &  Chalk
• Hand saw
• Moisture Meter (Wood &/or Concrete)
• Nail Set
• 6’ Straight Edge (Checking Level of Floor

PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
Job Site Inspection

• The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place.
• All concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other "wet" work should be thoroughly dry.
• The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on the base molding. (When possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete.)
• Sub-floor must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate testing method.
• All gutters and downspouts should be in place.
• Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. (Crawl space must be a minimum of 24" (600 mm) from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped.  The crawl space should have perimeter venting to a minimum of 1.5% of the crawl space square footage. These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation).
• Permanent air conditioning and heating  systems should be in place and operational
• The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-75 degrees F and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during and until occupied, to allow for proper acclimation.
• HVAC Systems should be in place and working 10 days before installation

REMEMBER: Solid wood flooring can only beinstalled on or above grade level.  Do not install in full bathrooms.

STORAGE AND HANDLING

1. Deliver the materials to an environmentally controlled site.
2. Flooring should not be delivered until the building has been closed in with windows and doors in place and until cement work, plastering and all other "wet" work is completed and dry.
3. Handle and unload flooring material with care.
4. Flooring products should be stored in the environment in which they are expected to perform.
5. Materials should be allowed to acclimate for as long as necessary to meet minimum installation requirements for moisture content. (Generally 3 to 5 days)
6. Store in a dry place being sure to provide at least a four-inch air space under cartons which are stored upon "on-grade" concrete floors.
7. Concrete should be at least 60 days old.

INSTALLATION APPLICATIONS

NOTE: MINOR SQUEAKING OF MECHANICALLY FASTENED FLOORS IS NOT ABNORMAL DUE TO STRUCTURAL MOVEMENT CAUSED BY CHANGES IN ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS. FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN MINIMIZE THESE FACTORS, BUT OFFER NO GUARANTEE THAT THE FLOOR WILL NOT SQUEAK.

General Information for Fastening Machines: Avoid striking the edge of pre-finished products with the fastener's mallet. Edge crushing can occur causing unsightly cracks and splinters. Use a block to hammer against if necessary.  Faceplates should be covered with protective materials to prevent damage to the surface of the flooring.

• Flooring Nailers: Improper adapter plate selection can cause severe edge damage. Ascertain that the proper adapter has been selected and properly installed for  your thickness of flooring

• Pneumatic Flooring Nailers: Improper pressure settings and failure to use proper adapters can cause severe damage to the flooring. The correct adapter and air pressure setting will properly set the fastener in the nail pocket

  • Low air pressures may fail to properly set the fastener and damage adjoining boards.  Air pressures set too high may cause damage to the tongue which may dramatically reduce the holding power of the fastener causing loose, squeaky floors.
  • Make certain that the compressor has a regulator in-line with the air hose for proper adjustment. Set pressure at 70-75 PSI to begin with and adjust until proper fastener setting occurs.

SUB-FLOOR REQUIREMENTS

Note: Laminated rosin paper as a first choice or 15# builders felt (tarpaper) as a second choice acts as a moisture retardant and may be used to reduce movement caused by changes in sub-floor moisture, thereby reducing cupping and warping. (This is especially helpful over crawl spaces and basements) In addition, the use of these materials can give the flooring a more solid feeling, reduce sound transfer, prevent noise caused by minor irregularities and debris, and make it easier to slide the wood together across the surface of the sub-floor. Kraft paper may be used to make installation easier but DOES NOT serve any other purpose.

SUB-FLOORS MUST BE:

• Clean - Scrape, broom clean, and smooth; Free of wax, paint, oil or debris.
• Level/Flat - Within 3/16" in 10' and/or 1/8" in 6'.
  • Sand high areas or joints.
  • Low spots may be flattened using a cementious underlayment material.  Consult manufacturers guidelines prior to application.
• Structurally Sound - Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak.
  • Replace any water-damaged, swollen or delaminated sub-flooring or under-layments, as they are unable to properly hold fasteners.
  • Avoid sub-floor with excessive vertical movement unless they have been properly stiffened prior to the installation of the wood flooring.
• Dry - Check moisture content of sub-floor.
  • Moisture content of wood sub-floor must not exceed 12% on a wood moisture meter, or read more than a 4% difference (3% for plank) than moisture level of product being installed.

RECOMMENDED SUB-FLOOR SURFACES

Preferred: 3/4" (19 mm) CDX Grade Plywood ¾” (23/32” OSB rated Under-layment

WOOD SUB-FLOORS & WOOD STRUCTURAL PANEL SUB-FLOORS

• Plywood: Must be minimum APA grade rated sheathing or CDX.
• Oriented Strand Board   (OSB): Must be PS2 rated installed sealed side down.

Do not install over particleboard, wafer-board, pressed wood or fiber board.

• Make sure existing floor or sub-floor is dry and well nailed or screwed down every 6" along each joist to avoid squeaking or popping before the floor is installed.
• Measure moisture content of both sub-floor and wood flooring to determine proper moisture content with a reliable wood moisture meter.
  • The wood sub-floor must not exceed 12% moisture content as measured with a reliable wood moisture meter.
  • The difference between the moisture content of the wood sub-floor and the wood flooring must not exceed 4%. (3% for plank)

Optimum performance of hardwood floor covering products occurs when there is no horizontal or vertical movement of the sub-floor. The MINIMUM sub-floor recommendations described above are for 16" 0/C joist spacing. The  PREFERRED sub-floor recommendations described above will allow 19.2" joist spacing if the joist manufacturer's recommended span is not exceeded. Spacing in excess of 19.2" O/C may not offer optimum results. Install flooring perpendicular to the floor joists when possible. Installations should not be made parallel to the floor joists or on joist spacing that exceeds 19.2" O/C unless the sub-floor has been properly stiffened. Stiffening may require the addition of a second layer of sub-flooring material to bring the overall thickness to at least 1-1/8"

All under-layment panels should be spaced 1/8" apart to insure adequate expansion space. This can be achieved by using a circular saw set at the depth of the under-layment and cutting around the perimeter of the panel. T&G panels normally have built in expansion; DO NOT cut around the perimeter of T&G panels. Do not install over existing glue-down floors. Do not install over nailed floors that exceed 3-1/4" in width. Wide width floors must be overlaid with plywood. When installing over existing wood floors parallel with the flooring, it may be necessary to install an additional 1/4" layer of plywood to stabilize the flooring or install the wood floor at right angles. Applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries must be met or exceeded.

CONCRETE SLABS

Solid flooring can be installed over concrete slabs on or above grade once the appropriate nailing surface has been installed. Random length planks can be installed directly to slabs on or above grade using Bostik MVP followed by the Bostik Best Urethane Adhesive in accordance with manufacturer’s guidelines.
For Engineered Flooring Adhesive use Bostik EFA

NOTE: The concrete must be of high compressive strength. All concrete sub-floors should be tested for moisture content. Visual checks are not reliable. Acceptable test methods for sub-floor moisture content include:

• A 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol solution test. Chip the concrete at least 1/4" deep (do not apply directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area. If any color change occurs, further testing is required.
• Calcium Chloride test. The maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 3 lbs. /1000 square feet with this test.
• Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter Meter test. Moisture readings should not exceed 4.5 on the upper scale.

NOTE: Test several areas, especially near exterior walls and walls  containing plumbing.

A "DRY" SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE WET AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR. THESE TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB. ALL CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 6 MIL POLY FILM MOISTURE BARRIER BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE CONCRETE.

Sub floor Systems Over Concrete Slabs
Prior to installation of any flooring, a one part, trowel applied, urethane moisture barrier, i.e. Bostik MVP (Moisture Vapor Protection) must be applied per manufacturer’s guidelines to a properly flattened and contaminant free slab.

• Cut 4’x4’ sheets of ¾” exterior grade plywood.
• Score the plywood sheets on the backside every 8” to 10” by using a circular saw and cutting one half the thickness of the sheets. (Scoring or kerfing takes the tension out of the plywood sheets and helps prevent possible warping or curling of the plywood.)
• Using a ¼”x1/4” square-notched trowel to apply adhesive, i.e., Bostik Best, set 4’x4’ sheets of ¾” exterior grade plywood into the wet adhesive.  (Allow adhesive to fully cure.)
• Install a layer of builders felt paper before nailing finished flooring materials into place (CAUTION) use only appropriate length mechanical fasteners.  DO NOT penetrate the underside of the plywood sheeting and or moisture barrier.)

NOTE: DBM Solid Wood Flooring may also be adhered directly to the plywood sheeting by the use of Bostik Best adhesive, per manufacturer’s installation guidelines.  Always consult individual products guidelines and specifications before proceeding with any installation.

Radiant Heat: Installation over radiant heat is acceptable if installed in accordance with NWFA guidelines.

RESILIENT TILE & RESILIENT SHEET VINYL

Make sure the vinyl or tile is well bonded to the entire sub-floor. Do not install over more than one layer, which does not exceed 1/8" in thickness over suitable sub-floor.

INSTALLATION STEPS
BEFORE GETTING STARTING, CONSIDER THESE TIPS

• Undercut door casings.
• Remove any existing base, shoe mold or door way thresholds. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts. (These items can be replaced after installation)
• Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture
• Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least 6", when possible, in adjacent rows. This will help ensure a more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
• Large spans in areas of high humidity may require the addition of internal or field expansion. This can be accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10-20 rows inserted above the tongue and removed after several adjoining rows have been fastened.

REMEMBER; IF IN DOUBT ABOUT ANY PRODUCT RELATED TO PLACEMENT, CHARACTERISTICS, COLOR, GRAIN, OR ANY OTHER CONCERN OR QUESTION REGARDING INSTALLATION, CONTACT YOUR SUPPLIER BEFORE INSTALLING!

STEP 1: ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT - WALL TO WALL INSTALLATION

Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should be installed perpendicular to the flooring joists unless sub-floor has been reinforced to reduce sub-floor sagging.

Find the appropriate sub-floor from SUB-FLOOR TYPES, section in these installation guidelines.

• If a moisture retardant material is to be used, such as Laminated Rosin Paper (see NOTE, Sub-floor Requirements Above), install this material before proceeding, lapping joints 6" and staple if necessary.
• Measure the width of the product being installed. For random or alternate width products, use the widest plank for the first row.
• For SOLID allow for 3/4" expansion, ENGINEERED allow ½” expansion.  Add the width of the tongue.
• Using this measurement, in at least two places, measure out equal distance from the starting wall and 12"-18" from the corners and snap a chalk line.

STEP 2: INSTALLING FIRST ROWS - WALL TO WALL INSTALLATION

NOTE: Always end glue wide width (4" or more) planks with a good construction adhesive.

• Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. Align tongue of first row on chalk line. The groove should be facing the starting wall. Pre-drill the nail holes 1/2" from back (groove) edge, 1-2" from each end, and at 6" intervals at a 45-degree angle down through the nailing "pocket" on top of the tongue.
• Face-nail the groove side where pre-drilled. When complete, blind-nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue of the first row. Fasten using finish nails. Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove. Avoid bruising the wood by using a nail set to drive the nails the last 1/4" into the tongue. Continue blind-nailing using this method with following rows until a flooring nailer can be used.
• End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 6" to ensure a more favorable overall appearance. (Do Not Repeat for 5 Rows)
• Beginning rows may be blind-nailed where clearance allows using a pneumatic finish nailer.

STEP 1 & 2: CENTER TO WALL INSTALLATION

• Snap a chalk line down the center of the room.
• Install a sacrificial row that extends the entire length of the room on the center line.
• Install three rows of flooring.
• Remove the sacrificial row, insert a slip tongue  into the open groove.  Fasten to the floor with a flooring nailer.

STEP 3: RACKING THE FLOOR

• "Dry" lay materials to cover approximately 2/3 of the room. Begin dry laying approximately 6" from the edge of the previously installed rows. Avoid pulling boards too tightly together on the sides, as they must move freely when fastening begins. (Do Not Repeat end joint  w/within 6”for 5 Rows)
• Mark the final board in each row and cut to proper length allowing for expansion. Visually inspect flooring, setting aside boards that need to have natural character flaws cut out. Use these boards for starting and finishing row after objectionable characteristics have been removed.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE FLOOR

• Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor. Check for surface damage, air pressure setting, tongue damage, etc. before proceeding. Make all adjustments and corrections before installation begins.
• Once proper adjustments have been made, remove and destroy the board.
• Begin installation with several rows at a time, fastening each board with at least two fasteners, 8-10" apart and 2-3" from the ends (to avoid splitting). Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening
• End joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 6" when possible to ensure a   more favorable overall appearance.
• The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face nail on the tongue
• Side following the nailing pattern used for the first row.
• Rip final row to fit and face nail. If the final row is less than 1” in width, it should first be glued and nailed to the previous un-installed row and the two joined units should be face nailed as one.

GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATIONS

Much of the information related to Nail-Down installations applies to Glue-Down as well.  Therefore, please make certain to read all the instructions preceding, before starting your glue-down installation.

Tools and Equipment Needed

• Quality Wood Flooring Urethane Adhesive,   (Solid Wood use Bostik Best), (Engineered Wood use Bostik EFA)
• Square Notch Trowel recommended by the Adhesive Manufacturer
• Adhesive Remover and Rags for cleaning during the install process
• Hardwood Repair Kit
• 3M Blue Masking Tape to hold flooring tight while adhesive sets
• Measuring Tape and Chalk Line
• Screwdriver (Slotted), Utility Knife, Pencil/Marker
• Table Saw, Chop Saw (Power Miter Saw)
• Hammer and Nails (Masonry Nails for concrete) to install starter row
• Cement Based Floor Leveler or Patch
• Moisture Meter (See CONCRETE SLABS above)
• Floor Preparation Equipment (or buffing machine with course sandpaper) to remove surface contaminants from slab.
• Shop Vacuum
• 6’ Straight Edge (Checking Level of Floor)
• Bostik Self Leveling Urethane Moisture Barrier (MVP), (As required, to reduce moisture transmission per Mfg guidelines)

Surface Preparation

• Install over clean concrete or plywood
• Remove 100% of any contaminates that may interfere with proper adhesion to substrate including sealers, adhesive residue, carpet backing, curing compounds, “overspray” and any other contaminate.
• Surface preparation using mechanical methods, such as Blastic shot blasting are recommended if sealers, cut-back, carpet backing adhesives are present. (This type of preparation is often contracted to a professional)
• Dust should be vacuumed up completely.
• Low areas are the most common concern for Installations.  Leveling prior to installation is a must before installation. (Variation should not exceed 1/8” in 8’)
  • If necessary, use a leveling compound such as Bostic Self Leveling or other “approved” leveling substances.
  • Increasing the amount of adhesive used may also assist in leveling selected areas.

Moisture Barrier

• Floor patch and leveling compounds should be cured per Mfg guidelines
• Dust should be vacuumed up completely
• Entire slab must be damped mopped and allowed to dry (Remove all dust particles)
• Spread the self leveling Bostik MVP Moisture Barrier over the entire slab following Mfg Guidelines and cure times.

Installation

• Install with Urethane Adhesive, See Tools and Equipment Needed.
• Secure a starter row to push against. (Tack Strip or strapping and masonry nails work well)
• Avoid working “on” the floor
• Use 3M Blue Masking Tape to keep flooring tight while adhesive cures.

Adhesive Transfer

• Hollow spots can be eliminated if there is a 90 plus % adhesive transfer.
• Additional adhesive may be applied to fills voids and improve transfer.
• If proper transfer is not being achieved check adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.

GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATIONS; Tips

1. Install a Starter Row:  A starter row gives you something firm to push against. Without it, the boards would open up and move around every time you kicked them or hit them with a mallet.
2. Spread Adhesive: Following the directions of the adhesive manufacturer, spread the adhesive and install the wood immediately.  Make sure you achieve 90-95% or per Mfg Directions, adhesive transfer.
3. Temporarily Tape the Flooring in Place: After a few rows are installed, tape them together with 3M removable blue tape as required. This will allow you to walk on your work if necessary without having the floor boards move.
4. Clean Up: As you install your flooring, periodically clean up any excessive glue or adhesive smudges by wiping with Bostik Adhesive Remover Towellets or per Mfg Directions.  This will keep your final clean-up to a minimum.

ALL INSTALLATIONS

STEP 5: COMPLETING THE JOB

• Clean floor with the recommended wood flooring cleaner.
• Install any transition pieces that may be needed, such as Reducer Strips, T-Moldings, or Thresholds. The products are available pre-finished to blend with your flooring. (See the following descriptions.)

TRIM and MOLDINGS

• Reducer Strip: a teardrop shaped molding. Used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition between Parquet and adjacent floor coverings that are thinner. Fasten down with adhesive or double-faced tape.
• Stair Nosing: a molding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Threshold: a molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten to sub-floor with adhesive and/or nails through the heel. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting. Always leave expansion beneath the undercut.
• Combination Base and Shoe: a molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor and the wall. Pre-drill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
• Quarter Round: a molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Pre-drill and nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
• T-Molding: a molding used as a transition piece from one flooring to another or to gain expansion spaces. Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Leave expansion beneath the undercut on both sides.

• Install all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor.
• Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
• If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard.  Cover the entire floor.
• Do not cover with plastic.
• Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring they purchased.

NOTE: To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy appliances and furniture on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary.

MAINTENANCE

Regular Maintenance: Dust mop, lightly sweep or vacuum flooring on high traffic areas to remove surface dust and debris.  If necessary, use a high quality hardwood flooring cleaner sparingly to properly clean and maintain the finish.  Do Not Use Solvent Based Cleaners

Preventive Maintenance: As with any floor covering proper care and minor maintenance will help to keep a new floor looking its best. Here are some tips to help make floor maintenance easy:

• Never wet mop or clean your floor with water. Water can dull the finish and permanently damage the floor.
• Put outside door mats at the entrances to keep dirt and moisture from being tracked in. Inside you may want to add area rugs to further prevent dirt and moisture from being tracked onto your floor. Don't use rubber, foam back or plastic mats as they may discolor the floor. To prevent slippage of area rugs, use an approved vinyl rug underlay from a reputable manufacturer.
• Normal exposure to sunlight will bring about changes in the shading of any floor as the floor ages causing floor to darken.
• Sweep or vacuum your floor as often as required to remove loose dirt or grit before it can scratch the surface of the floor. Pet's nails can also cause surface scratches and should be kept trimmed.
• Wipe up spills as soon as possible before they get sticky or dry.
• Use floor protectors on the feet of furniture to avoid scratches. When moving heavy furniture or appliances slip a blanket or scrap of carpet, face down, under each leg and slide the furniture carefully. This will help avoid scratches and gouging.
• Certain types of casters on furniture may damage flooring. Barrel-type caster wheels or wide flat glides are best for protecting your floor.
• A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions. Excessive humidity can also adversely affect your floor. A humidity level of 35% to 55% is recommended.
• In damp conditions proper humidity levels can be maintained with an air conditioner or dehumidifier, or by periodically turning on your heating system during hot weather.
• Some types of high heel shoes may cause indentations and related damage to floors due to the extremely high compressive force they generate. Claims will not be accepted for damages which arise from such exposure.
• All Pine flooring is impressionable.  Therefore, some indentations are considered normal and only add to the overall look and character of your floor.

PARTICULAR ATTENTION SHOULD BE PAYED TO THE FOLLOWING:

HEATING AND NON-HEATING:  Recognizing that wood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your building, care should be taken to control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, we have provided our recommendations below.

• Heating Season (Dry) - A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
• Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet) - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier, and/or or by turning on your heating system periodically. Avoid excessive exposure to water from tracking during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in any way the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.

FLOOR REPAIR

Minor damage can be repaired with a touch-up kit or filler. Since “NATURAL” wood flooring varies in color, shade and grain pattern, the Installer/Homeowner can obtain filler and stains that “match” from their dealer.  Very minor scratches may be “hidden” by simply dabbing a drop or two of polyurethane from a cotton swab and letting in flow into the scratch. Major damage will require board replacement, which can be done by a professional floor installer.

FLOOR DARKENING

Normal exposure to sunlight will bring about changes in any hardwood floor due to the natural aging/oxidation process. Over time, this process will cause your flooring to take on a deeper, richer and darker look. For the first 6 to 8 months, rugs and other furnishings that screen or block the flooring from natural lighting or room lighting should be moved occasionally.  This will minimize any appearance of discoloring under these objects. This is not a product defect and is not covered by our Warranty.